Jaisalmer-Guide

Rajasthan Travel Guide > Jaisalmer Travel Guide

Its like straight out of an Arabian Nights fable. The name Jaisalmer induces a dramatic picture of utter magic and brilliance of the desert. The hostile terrain not with standing the warmth and colour of people is simply over whelming. One of the main draws is the daunting 12th century Jaisalmer Fort. The beautiful havelis which were built by wealthy merchants of Jaisalmer are yet another interesting aspect of the desert city. And you can let your eyes caress the sloppy sand dunes while you ramble your way in a camel safari. The desert citadel is truly a golden fantasy in Thar Desert. Bhatti Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, after whom the city finds its name, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. On advice of a local hermit Eesaal he chose the Tricut Hills as his new abode abandoning his vulnerable old fort at Luderwa just 16 kilometres northwest. In Medieval times, its prosperity was due to its location on the main trade route linking India to Egypt, Arabia, Persia, Africa and the West. The Bhatti Rajput rulers lined their coffer with gains from traditional taxes on passing by caravans and sometimes through illicit gains by rustling cattle.

Over the years the remote location of Jaisalmer kept it almost untouched by outside influences. In the 13th century Ala-ud-din Khilji Emperor of Delhi besieged the fort for nine years in an effort to take back the treasure taken by the Bhatti Rajput from his imperial caravan train. When the fall of the fort was imminent the women of the fort committed Jauhar, an act of mass self-immolation, while men donned saffron robes and rode to their certain death. Duda son of Jaitasimha, a Bhatti hero also perished in the battle. Dudas descendants continued to rule Jaisalmer. In 1541 they even fought Mughal Emperor Himayun. Though their relations with Mugshal was not always hostile. Sabala Simha won the patronage of Mughal Emperor Shaha Jahan for battle distinctions in Peshawar and the right to rule Jaisalmer. In the days of Raj, Jaisalmer was the last to sign the Instrument of Agreement with the British.

Ages have gone by and the monuments of Jaisalmer have withstood the buffeting winds of the desert all through. Jaisalmer is a marvel of beautiful culture and harsh climatic conditions, together amounting to a memorable experience. The old city was completely encircled by wall but much of it is now pulled down sadly for want of building material in recent years. The massive golden fort, which is the essence of Jaisalmer, is entered through First Gate. Is a burrow of narrow streets complete with Jain Temples and old palaces. The main market the Bhatia Market is right below the hill. The bank, offices and several shops are also located near the Amar Sagar Gate to the west.

Jaisalmer Fort

Known as SONAR QUILA or the Golden fort, rising from the sand , the mega structure merges with the golden hues of the desert ambience and the setting suns in its most colourful shades gives it a fairy tale look. Its simply a magic, the bastions envelops a whole townships that consist of palace complex various security sources and the havelis of rich merchants carved with an incredibly light touch, several temples and the residential complexes of the armies and traders placed strategically on the trade route, from where the ancient caravans passed en-route passing all the riches for the prosperity to an otherwise non source full kingdom. These merchants served and acquire a great deal of power and noble status in the royal courts of Bhatti Rajputs who founded the state in the 12th century and proceeded further. But the rich merchant inspired by the classic style of the royals , constructed huge mansions (havelis) adjacent to each other in the nature of medieval culture and profusely decorated walls and ceilings and intricately carved outdoors and interiors. The colourful art forms and some how side kind the royal heritage and made it appear more pale in comparison . The craftsmen were usually muslims who were induced on their journey to exhibit their skills. The results was architectural purity that cannot be seen elsewhere.

Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli
Two architect brothers built it in the 19th century. Interestingly, while one concentrated on the right, the other concentrated on the left and the result is a symphony epitomising the side by side symmetry during construction. Paintings in miniature style monopolise the walls in the interior. Mighty tuskers carved out of yellow sandstone stand guard to the haveli.

Salim Singh Ki Haveli

This haveli was built about 300 years ago and a part of it is still occupied. Salim Singh was the prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of the princely state and his mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of Peacocks. The mansion is just below the hill and it is said that once it had two additional wooden storeys in an attempt to make it as high as the maharaja's palace, but the maharaja had the upper storey torn down.

Patwon-Ji-Ki-Haveli

This is one of the largest and most elaborate Haveli in Jaisalmer and stands in a narrow lane. It is five storeys high and is extensively carved. It is divided into six apartments, two owned by archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work.

TaziaTower

The delicate pagoda like Tazia Tower rises from Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace). Rising in its five-tiered splendour, with each storey graced by a delicately carved balcony, the tower is of historical significance. Muslim craftsmen built it in the shape of a Tazia and gifted it to their royal patron.

Gadi Sagar

This tank, south of the city walls, once held the town water supply, and befitting its importance in providing precious water to the inhabitants of this arid city, it is sourrounded by small temples and shrines. The beautiful yellow sandstone gateway arching across the road down to the tank is the Tilon-ki-Pol, and is said to have been built by a famous prostitute, Tilon . When she offered to pay to have this gateway constructed, the Maharaja refused permission under it to go down to the tank and he felt that this would be beneath his dignity. While he was away, she built the gate , adding a Krishna temple on top so that king could not tear it down.

Sam Sand Dunes

Sam Sand Dunes, 42 away km from Jaisalmer, is the most popular excursion to see the total sandy bush less desert. It has a truly glorious stretch of sweeping sand dunes. It is best to be here at sunrise or sunset, and many camel safaris spend a night at the dunes. The best way to see this and other sights around Jaisalmer is to take a came safari. The standard trip lasts for 4 days and three nights, and offers the opportunity to explore the area in authentic and leisurely fashion, with entertainment by folk performers, visits to villages, and chatter from colourful guides thrown in. However you can also day trip and go by car. Hordes of tourist arrive just before sun set. Camels can be hired easily and you may be able your favourite picture with a lone camel on a desert track and the setting sun in the backdrop. Despite the tourist throng, the place has not lost it magic. The desert festival held sometimes in February each year is a big draw and it is full of fun, colour and laughter, cultural events and competitions.

Pokran

It is located on the junction of Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Bikaner Road. It is on route to Jaisalmer and is also a fort town though the fort is not of the dimensions of Jaisalmer or Jodhpur. Pokran also came into limelight, as it was the site for India nuclear detonation. Pokran is also renowned for its furniture and interior crafts. The Fort locate about 1.5 kms from the bus stand has an assortment of weaponry, brocade clothes and various games of dice and dominoes on display. Fort Pokran also offers hotel accommodation with some washed out appeal.

Barmer

Barmer is a desert town just 153 kms from Jaisalmer and has fortresses to boast off. This place is primarily famous for its woodcarving, furniture and interiors, carpets, block printing and embroideries. The centre for embroidery is the Sadar Bazaar and woodcarvings are around the Station Road. It has an RTDC Hotel and private Hotels too.

Just 35 kms form Barmer is a group of five temples in architectural style known as Solanki. These temples feature some very fine sculpture and the Someshwara Temple with a multi tier spire is the most impressive. Since it is very close to the sensitive Pakistan border, foreigners visiting it must obtain prior permission form the District Collector.

Bada Bag:- Situated 6 kms. north of Jaisalmer on way to Ramgarh. Royal cenotaphs with carved images of past Maharawals & their families. Each chhatris preserve inscribed tablet recording the death of Maharawals in which the memorials are raised. The chhatris have been built on a set-pattern but in different sizes. The beautiful spot jait bundh (Dame) & Lake after Maharawal Jait Singh was constructed in 1513 AD. Attached to bundh (Dame), on other side is garden of mangoes and other fruits.

Baisakhi:- Only 16kms. from Jaisalmer, a Tirth (religious palace) for Hindus, attracting a number of devotees on full Monday of Baisakh every year for holy dip. A temple dedicated to Lord shiva is originally of early pratihar period and seems to be restored in 16th Century.

Ram-Kunda:- A temple, 11 kms and 1 Km. off the ramgarh route, Shrine dedicated to God Rama & Krishna, constructed during the reign of Maharawal Amar Singh in 17th Century.

Luderwa:- 16 kms. Northwest from Jaisalmer, Luderwa is the ancient capital of Jaisalmer now a silent city, the only witness to its former splendour are the jain temple, toran (ornate arche) & artificial divine tree (Kalptaroo) are the main attraction here. Ruins of the deserted capital still remind the famous love legend of Moomal-Mahendra.

Amar-Sagar:- 6 kms. on way to Luderwa the natural spot developed by Maharawal Amar Singh is a water reservoir in 1688 AD. The dams were constructed to hold rainwater. Several terraces are formed where summer palaces, temples are constructed & Garden developed. On the south of the lake stands the exquisitely carved Jain temple constructed by Himmat Ram Bafna, the descendant of famous patwas.

Mool-Sagar:- 8 kms. on way to Sam Sand Dunes, is an another natural point. Lake, Garden, summer palaces constructed by Maharawal Mool Raj in 18th Century.

Kuldhara & Khabha:- (Medieval Deserted village of Paliwal Brahmins)
The total number of 84 villages were abandoned by Paliwal Brahmins overnight, out of that two most prominent villages are Kuldhara & Khabha located about 18 to 30 kms. South West of Jaisalmer and Kuldhara 5 kms. of the same road. The ruins of Kuldhara & Khabha exhibit the architectural, excellence of those times, which was buried under dunes till recently.

Rani Rupmati�s pavillion at Mandu on the banks of the river Narmada

Inside the tomb of Salim Chisti at Fatehpur Sikri

Tiger over a Sambar kill. Bandavgarh National Park

Special thanks to Karoki Lewis, Aditya Singh and Outlook for use of their photographs.
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Jama Masjid, Asia�s largest mosque, New Delhi